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افتراضي الغسالة الكترولوكس إصلاح أبو ظبي

<*iv align="left">Electrolux Washing Machine Repair Abu Dhabi
If you've gotten this far an* your washer is still broken, *on't give up now. We're only getting starte*, an* your laun*ry isn't going anywhere. we'll *iscuss why it may just be ba* timing.
The timer controls most of the operations of the washer: water level, tub filling an* emptying, length of cycles an* cycle-setting sequences. For this reason, any repairs to the timer shoul* be ma*e by a professional service person. However, there are a couple of checks you can make yourself when you suspect the timer is faulty. [فقط الأعضاء المسجلين والمفعلين يمكنهم رؤية الوصلات . إضغط هنا للتسجيل]




[IMG]http://www.m9c.net/uploa*s/15689769034.jpg[/IMG]


Step 1: Unplug the washer. To access the timer, remove the control knobs an* the panel that covers the controls. This is usually the same control panel we *iscusse* earlier, but may also be accesse* be through a panel at the back of the unit. Carefully examine the wires that connect the timer to the other parts of the washer. If the wires are loose or *isconnecte*, try pushing them into position; they usually fit into their terminals like plugs. Use long-nose* pliers to push them into position in or*er to avoi* breaking the wire connections -- never pull a wire by han*.
Step 1: Unplug the washer. To access the timer, remove the control knobs an* the panel that covers the controls. This is usually the same control panel we *iscusse* earlier, but may also be accesse* be through a panel at the back of the unit. Carefully examine the wires that connect the timer to the other parts of the washer. If the wires are loose or *isconnecte*, try pushing them into position; they usually fit into their terminals like plugs. Use long-nose* pliers to push them into position in or*er to avoi* breaking the wire connections -- never pull a wire by han*.

Step 2: To test the timer, use a volt/ohm meter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. The RX1 scale is the lowest an* shoul* be the *efault setting of the meter. Disconnect the power lea*s to the timer an* clip one probe of the VOM to each lea*. The VOM shoul* rea* zero if the timer is working. Since the timer is a multipurpose switch, turn it through its cycle an* test each pair of terminals in turn. The meter shoul* rea* zero at all of these points. If one or more rea*ings are above zero, the timer is faulty an* shoul* be replace*.
Step 3: To replace the timer, unscrew an* *isconnect the ol* one. Install a new timer ma*e specifically for the washing machine. Disconnect the ol* wires one at a time, connecting each correspon*ing new wire as you work to make sure the connections are properly ma*e. After all the wires are connecte*, check the connections again for correctness an* screw the timer assembly into place.
Now we're having some serious fun! Actually, you're probably thinking about which is more painful, rea*ing about laun*ry or actually *oing it. Take heart -- we're approaching the spin cycle an* you'll be *one soon.
If your washer is overflowing or is excessively noisy, the tips on this page may be able to help you solve your problem.
If the washer won't fill or fills very slowly, if it overfills, or if the water is the wrong temperature, the water inlet valves coul* be faulty. These components are easy to locate an* very easy to replace, at little cost. When you suspect an inlet valve is broken, first check to make sure the water faucets are fully turne* on an* properly connecte* to the hot an* col* inlets of the valves. Then check the screens in the valves; if they're clogge*, clean or replace them. If water *oesn't enter the tub, set the temperature control to the HOT setting. If there is no water, set the control to the WARM setting. If all that comes out is col* water, the hot-water inlet valve is not working. Reverse the proce*ure to test the col*-water valve, setting the control first on COLD an* then on WARM. If the tub overfills, unplug the washer. If water still flows into the tub, the valve is stuck open. In any of these cases, the valves shoul* probably be replace*.

Here's how to check the valve assembly:
Step 1: Remove the back service panel an* *isconnect the hot-water an* col*-water hoses to the valves.
Step 2: Remove the hoses connecte* to the valves insi*e the cabinet. Also *isconnect the wires from the terminals. Back out the screws hol*ing the valves to the machine. The inlet valves have solenoi*s (a coil of wire that carries a current) insi*e the housing.
Step 3: Tap the solenoi*s with a screw*river han*le. If this *oesn't work, replace the entire inlet valve assembly. Install it in the reverse or*er of the way you *isconnecte* the ol* one.
If laun*ry is torn *uring the wash cycle, feel aroun* the tub. If you fin* a rough spot, you may be able to smooth it with an emery boar* or light san*paper. If this *oesn't work -- or if you have to cut to bare metal to remove the roughness -- the tub shoul* be replace*. In this case, it's probably much wiser to replace the entire washer.
You've probably notice*, but now we're getting into the really sticky problems. By now, the weeken* warriors have aban*one* all hope an* are strolling through the aisles of Home Depot. But not you. In the next section, we'll test your mettle with more miscellaneous mechanical gobble*ygook.

Agitate This: Servicing the Agitator

The agitator -- the finne* part that fits on the tub shaft -- can also tear laun*ry if the fins are cracke* or broken. You may be able to solve the problem temporarily by pinching off the splinters with pliers an* lightly filing the plastic smooth, but this is just a stopgap measure; the agitator shoul* be replace*. Replace a *amage* agitator with a new one of the same type. To *o this, unscrew the cap on top of the agitator. With the cap off, pull straight up on the agitator; it shoul* lift off. If it *oesn't move, rap its si*e with a hammer. If it still won't lift off, *rive we*ges un*er the bottom rim of the agitator to *islo*ge it. Then, set the new agitator into place an* replace the agitator cap.
Damage to the snubber, a pa*-like *evice sometimes locate* un*er the agitator cap, can cause the machine to vibrate excessively. The snubber may have a suspension spring in it. Lift off the agitator cap an* examine the snubber. If the spring is broken, or if the pa* is visibly worn, replace the entire snubber. Snubbers might also be foun* at the top of the tub, un*er the transmission, or as part of the water-pump housing. Look aroun* until you see it. [فقط الأعضاء المسجلين والمفعلين يمكنهم رؤية الوصلات . إضغط هنا للتسجيل]

If the machine *oesn't have a snubber, listen for noise at the suspension unit between the tub an* the machine cabinet. The suspension unit has fins or pa*s that may nee* replacement. In some cases, the entire unit may have to be replace*. Another noise point is the basket support nut, which hol*s the basin in place. You can imagine what kin* of punishment that sucker takes. Tighten the nut or, if you can't tighten it, replace it.
Su**en tub stops can be cause* by a broken motor belt, but they are usually *ue to poor tub loa*ing. Check to see if wet laun*ry is wa**e* aroun* the bottom of the tub shaft, or un*er the basket or agitator assembly. Remove the basket or agitator in or*er to remove the laun*ry easily.
Next, we'll take a look at water-relate* problems, starting with troubleshooting water leaks.
Troubleshooting Water Leaks

Water leaks in a washer are often *ifficult to trace. The problem coul* be a loose connection, a broken hose, a cracke* component or a *efective seal. It coul* also be a hole in the tub. If that's the culprit, it's usually best to replace the washer.
Tightening water connections can eliminate most leaks. Here's how to *o it:
Step 1: Check the li* seal. If faulty, replace with a new gasket.
Step 2: Check the hoses at faucet connections. Tighten connections or replace hoses.
Step 3: Check the hoses at water valve connections. Tighten connections or replace hoses.
Step 4: Check the *rain hoses. Tighten connections or replace hoses.
Step 5: Check the inlet nozzles. Tighten connections or replace nozzles.
Step 6: Check the splash guar*. Tighten connections or replace.
Step 7: Check any plastic valve. Tighten connections or replace.
Step 8: Check the outlet hose to *rain. Tighten connections or replace hose.
Step 9: Check the water pump, using the proce*ures that follow on the next page
Now that you've checke* the most likely sources for a water leak, you can reasonably rule out that as the culprit. On the following pages, we will cover tips for servicing the water pump, the belts an* pulleys, an* the motor.
Pump Problems: Servicing the Water Pump

Take the pump apart an* clean away all *ebris insi*e it. Clear away *ebris from the water tubes, too.
HOWSTUFFWORKS
Of all washing machine parts, the water pump probably takes the most punishment because it's constantly in use. When the pump fails, you can hear or see the trouble: a lou* rumbling insi*e the machine, or a failure of the water to *rain out of the tub. Here's what you can *o to fix the problem:
Step 1: Check the *rain hoses to make sure they're *raining properly. Remove the water supply hoses from the back of the washer. With long-nose* pliers, extract the filter screens from the valve ports in the washer or from the hoses themselves. These screens keep *ebris from collecting in the hoses an* can become clogge*. Wash the screens thoroughly. Then, replace them an* reattach the hoses. If the machine still rumbles or *oesn't *rain, examine the pump.
Step 2: To access the pump, first bail an* sponge out any water in the machine's tub. Then tip the washer over on its front, using a heavy blanket or pa* to protect the washer's finish. Remove the back service panel. The pump is usually locate* along the bottom of the machine, but with the unit tippe* on its front, it's easier to remove the pump through the back than through the bottom of the washer.
Step 3: Locate the pump. It has two large hoses attache* to it with spring or strap clips. If the clips are the spring type, pinch the en*s of the clips together with pliers to release them, an* sli*e the clips *own the hoses. If the hoses are kinke* or crimpe* at these connections, straighten them as best you can an* reconnect them. Then, try the machine again to see if this kinking was causing the problem. If the machine still *oesn't *rain, you'll have to remove the water pump.
Step 4: To remove the pump, loosen the bolt that hol*s the *rive belt taut an* move the washer motor on the bracket to loosen the belt. Move the motor out of the way an* unbolt the pump. As you loosen the last mounting bolt, support the pump with your han*. Then, lift the pump out of the washer.
Step 5: You shoul* take the pump apart if you can because the trouble coul* be lint, *irt or pieces of cloth. Clean away all *ebris insi*e the pump an* clear any *ebris out of the water tubes. Reassemble an* hook up the pump again an* test it. If cleaning the pump *oesn't put it back into working or*er, or if the pump housing can't be remove*, replace the pump with a new one of the same kin*.
Step 6: To install the new pump, set it into position an* connect the mounting bolts to the pump housing. Move the motor back into position. Tighten the *rive belt (the rubber belt that connects two shafts of the motor) by prying it taut with a hammer han*le or pry bar; it shoul* give about 1/2 inch when you press on it at the center point between the two pulleys.
Step 7: Reconnect the hoses lea*ing to the pump.
If the pump's not your problem, other mechanical issues may be afoot. If your belts an* pulleys are to blame, fin* out how to fix them on the next page. [فقط الأعضاء المسجلين والمفعلين يمكنهم رؤية الوصلات . إضغط هنا للتسجيل]
Belts an* Pulleys an* Motors, Oh My!



The *rive belt (or belts) of a washing machine may become worn or *amage*, causing noisy operation or stopping the washer entirely. Fortunately, a *amage* *rive belt is easy to replace. Remove the back panel of the washer to gain access to the belt an* then follow these steps to remove it:
Step 1: Loosen the bolt on the motor bracket an* move the motor to put slack in the belt. The motor bracket is a simple metal brace that hol*s the motor housing in place.

Step 2: Remove the ol* belt an* stretch a new one into place on the pulleys.
Step 3: To put tension on the new belt, use a hammer han*le or a short pry bar to push the motor into position while you tighten the bolt in the a*justable bracket. The belt shoul* have about 1/2 inch *eflection, or give, when you press on it at the center point, mi*way between the pulleys. If the belt is too loose, it will slip on the pulleys, causing the machine to malfunction. If the belt is too tight, it will wear very quickly an* will probably become so hot that it will start to smoke or smell.
Loose pulleys can also cause problems. Most pulleys are fastene* to shafts with setscrews aroun* the hub of the pulley. Remember, setscrews *o not have hea*s so you might have to look closely to see them. These screws must be tight, or else the pulley or belt will slip. The resulting malfunction may seem to be cause* by a faulty motor, but it can be correcte* by tightening the pulleys an* a*justing the belt. For this reason, always check the belts an* pulleys before working on the motor.
In most cases, motor malfunctions shoul* be han*le* by a professional; *o not try to fix the motor yourself. If the motor is a universal mo*el, however, you can change worn carbon brushes when sparking occurs, as *etaile* in How to Repair Appliances. To save yourself the expense of a service call, remove the motor from the washer an* take it to a professional service person, then reinstall the repaire* or new motor yourself. To access the motor, remove the back panel of the washer. The motor is mounte* on an a*justable bracket.
As you can see, washing machines are complicate* appliances with lots of moving parts. However, washers typically last aroun* 12 years, which is not too shabby [source: Appliance.net]. With the troubleshooting tips in this article, you shoul* be able to squeeze a few more years out of your machine an* get cranking out loa*s of clean laun*ry in no time.







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